2008

It takes about a week, before I recover from the shock and then I start making a list of things to do. I have to give 4 weeks notice to the lady I work for on mondaymornings. I have to stop being moderator of www.motorforum.nl and I will stop writing about my bike-adventures for www.zeenz.nl/motor/. Then I have to cancell all my subscriptions and memberships. I have to find a way to sell my motorbikes, because leaving them suspended for the year and only take them for a ride in december is no good. The bikes should be used. I should cancell the insurances, need to arrange medication and get my own healthplan and travel insurance.

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February 10, Goodbyes.

On msn I had told my boss in Turkey, that I would be homeless in 6 weeks time and he and his brother agreed, I could come and live in the spare room in their appartment. But first I want to visit my friend and her son on the greek island of Kos. There are still some things here, she had left behind and I wrap them all up and sent the parcels to her. I send a mail to my daughter, she owns a travel-agency. I ask her to find me a cheap flight to Kos about halfway february. Roel gave me only 6 weeks to get my arse out of here. She sends me a few options and I choose one of them. First my daughter takes an option on the ticket, but I order her to print the E-ticket. So, now we have a deadline.

On january 22 the weather is finally nice and so I ride on my Shadow to Annie who owns Motorcentrum Coevorden. She will sell my bikes. I meet the real Conimexman, whom I know from forum-meetings and he is prepared to drive me home by car by the end of the afternoon. I invite him to stay for dinner. After dinner we drink a cup of coffee together and then he leaves again.

Everything I touch in this house, I have to say goodbye to as I have to leave it all behind. I made the concrete for the floors, the cement for over the floorheating. I rendered walls with cement and plaster. I have plastered walls, sanded them painted them and some I put wallpaper up. I glued the tiles on walls and kitchenfloor. The lay-out of the kitchen is made to my liking and ideas, I made the choice for grips. I have to leave it all behind. The wooden floor in the livingroom was my choice. My nice warm waterbed. This hurts, it is a thorn in my flesh. I am very emotional and my socalled friends don't even bother to drop by in all those weeks and so my family. All the more reason to leave. I am worried about my youngest son, who seems to get the full load. He really is in trouble now with his study. He thought he finally was enough motivated to get his study-points for this year.

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On my way to Athens.

On february 2nd I take my Deauville to Coevorden. When I look outside in the morning, there is a watery sun shining and there is hardly any wind. Quite different from the storm we had coming over in the past week. At a quarter to 10 I am already on my bike and drive to the south. I simply drive by the highways. Near Beilenthere is some drizzle, but it is more the moist other vehicles make jump up then actual rain. I stop at a service-station and have a smoke. Then I move on again. Past Hoogeveen my fingertips begin to feel very cold, so I stop at the first parking after I have taken the exit to Coevorden. I don't think it is a good thing to drive the last 6 kms like this.

I would arrive with no feelings in my fingers. So I clap my hands covered in gloves and soon the feeling comes back to normal. Then I move on for a nice hot cup o coffee at Annie her bikeshop. Without me knowing it, Rudyhadee has mailed some of the long-term members of the bikerforum, so distract me that day from saying goodbye to my bikes. JanBMW had already promised me that he would take me home by car. And so it happens that day. In the evening I have the annual meeting of the local bikerclub and Jan says goodbye in front of the pub, where the meeting takes place. The weekend fo Februay 9 and 10 I have reserved for family and friends. The house is loaded and I am very busy to get all the cups of coffee and tea to my guests. It is a very emotional and not only for me. Even a few bikermates take the trouble to say goodbye again, due to the nice weather. A good day to look back upon. But there is still a week and half to go and I use this time to arrange lots of things.


* The beginning of my new life *

On February 14 in the morning at 07.30 I pull the door shut behind me for the last time and step in the car with my daughter. She takes me to Schiphol. It seems to be a nice and quiet rushhour so at 10 we are at the airport already. I can almost check in straight away and then I go find an SD-card for my new digital camera.

There is a very nice special, containing a card in which I can slide the SD-card and then it fits straight away in my laptop. No more cables needed anymore to upload my pictures. Just after 12.30 my plane is airborn and I fly to Athens first. We arrive nicely on time. I can check in straight away for the flight to Kos. My suitcase flies straight away to Kos, so I don't need to look for it first and then check it in again.

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Platani, Kos, Greece.

On Kos my friend and her son are awaiting me and together we drive to their house, to have dinner and then time to talk with a nice glass of wine. Of course it is late in no time at all. But it is good to be together again. The first two nights I sleep very well in the company of one of the dogs. The other one is guarding my slippers and will do so, as long as I am around.

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The weather is changing all the time and there is an icecold wind. On monday the 18th we see to our surprise tiny snowflakes coming fom the sky. The very first time in the history of the island of Kos. Every day there is the routine of breakfast, taking th son to school and then leave the dogs out in the process. They love to run after a toy and keep taking it back all the time. And then there is coffee.

Michaela is an excellent cook and after a week my narrow face has cheeks again. We let ourselves be informed about the feries to Bodrum and find out they only go on mondays, wednesdays and fridays. On saturday the 23rd we go with the three of us in the car for a ride. First we go get a sandwich "Obelix" for all of us, meaning you can compose your own sandwich. After that we drive from Kos-city into the mountains and by Pily to Kardammena. Then from Mastichari along the coastline to Tingaki and so on to Kos-city again. On sunday the 24th we drive into the mountains over Platani and stop at the Hypocrates Foundation to walk in the woods with the dogs.

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Later we go to the beach. After coming back I take the challenge of laying in a hangmat to get some colour. I have to admit, that it is comfortable, it's just I miss one hour from that afternoon. On tuesday the 26th Michaela and I drive in the company of the dogs to Kefolos on the south side of the island, while the son is at school. Lots has changed over there and has been built since I was last there about 12 years ago. On thursday the 28th I already buy myself a ticket for the ferry to Bodrum. The ferry leaves at half past three in the afternoon and the boat-trip is about 45-50 minutes. Then it is friday the 29th and I ned to pack my suitcase. This time there is not the limit of 20 kilo and that is for the best. We leave home nicely in time and I need to get a boarding card on the quay. Then a few warm hugs and I walk through customs. On arrival in Bodrum I first get myself a visum, this gives me three months in Turkey and only costs for citizens of the netherlands 10 Euro, but I already knew that. Then I have to pass customs again and then it is the art to find myself a bus that will take me to Alanya. But they are not to be found here, so I choose a bus for Antalya. The bus will leave at then-thirty in the evening. with a heavy suitcase, a handbag and my laptopbag I don't go very far, so I stay around. The trip mainly leads through mountainous areas and with a speed of around 30 mph I won't be able top sleep with all the corners and hairpins. But somehow I miss 2 times a quarter of an hour. The trip ends at 5.15 in the moring at Antalya airport. A little further there are 2 smaller busses waiting and one of thm will drive to Alanya, so I am lucky.

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Even before 5.30 I am on my way again and at 7 I am at the bus-terminal of Alanya. It is already 12 degrees and sunny. I call my boss and he promises me he will come and get me. He has arranged a taxi and so we are back on base in no time at all. What strikes me most is that the fuel is immensely expensive here. I had not tken the trouble in december to recalculate it into Euro's. In the Netherlands it may have passed the 1.50 Euro limit but there is quite a difference. Only last week, just outside of Zipari on the Greek island of Kos I saw the price of 1.06 Euro, but here it is around the 2.20 Euro a litre and that has it's influnce on the prices of the tours for the tourists.

The first days we walk in the city most every day and I learn how to find back the appartment. On March 4 we drive with 2 others in a car to Antalya and on the way back we visit the waterfall in Manavgat and pay a visit to a goldfactory. Then I go out more often on my own. Now and then I still get lost, but I always know to find the flat, especially fom the Atatürk street or the harbour. On march 6 I visit an internetfriend who owns a wineshop here and we celebrate it by drinking a bottl of red wine. Here and there I make friends. In the harbour I meed a boatowner who treats me with a boattrip for next week as he has a trip with tourists then and I can join in. I make a new update for JanBMW his website along the line. We have a guest in the flat and I buy myself a new bikini. On march 14 I go on a tour with my tam-mates and a busload of Danish students.

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They don't want the city tour so we turn it into a picknick tour. We go into the mountains. They can't complain about the freshness of the fish. On arrival they still swim in a tank, are taken out, cleaned in the kitchen and straight on the BBQ, within half an hour on your plate. I get my text in English only for the tour I have to do this summer and so I translate it in German and Dutch. Then on march 19 the boss has to go with a group of people as he is certified. Because there is place in the bus, I can come as a guest. That day we visit the Roman stadion of Perge and the Lara waterfall, that throws her water in the sea.

In the afternoon, I have to lead for a moment. Some guests need more time at a goldshop and the leader stays with some guests behind. Now it is up to me to tell the people what we are going to do next and keep them topgether when we are out of the bus near the harbour of Antalya for a photoshoot. Later the others join us again. the next day we go on a tour again with the same guests from a hotel in Side. this time we first visit the weekly market in Manavgat and then we go to the aquadukt of Aspendos. Unfortionatly we only pass by the amphi-theatre of Aspendos, but we do visit the Belkis bridge.

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The bridge is not straight, as superstition was that the devil could see you come over a straight bridge. The Selsjuks built it on a foundation made by Romans. On march 21 I make a "soundcheck" on the computer. Just hearing my own voice and see if I need to pay attention to certain things. In the evening I ask the boss to listen and give me his comment. But he is satisfied about it. On sunday march 23 I make a long walk in the upper city, then by the harbour I en in our branche office.

It is quiet in the city with tourists, most of them will be on the beach. Every day I spend a few hours in the travel agency, just hearing info and in the evening we are working on the website, time to get that finished. And then there is some and get pictures from my camera. In the past 6 weeks I made over 1400 pictures. Time to work on an update.

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Walking the boulevard on march 26, I hear noise from the sea-side, so I have a look. Nice waves.

On March 30 it is "the"-day. My first tour. With 10 guests, my boss and me go on KAS-tour. Waterfall, Aspendos and Side. Our guests ome from Belgium, Scotland, Iran, England and Germany. I have to do the information in 2 languages. By the end of the day the boss is satisfied and I have a good feeling about my first performance. The english ldies give me big hg at the end of the day. On April 3 we have another tour. This time only 8 persons, 6 Germans, 2 English. In the morning it is raining, but after visiting the theatre in Aspendos and the aquaduct, the sun comes through. In the afternoon on our way to Side (the antic city) we have a thunderstorm.

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After the tour of April 8 it bcomes very quiet, tour-wise. On April 13, I receive a text-message fom Tine (we went with them to Lütz and they came with us to Scotland in 2004). She will come to Turkey with her husband Tjerk. Their daughter lives herw with her husband. Would be nice to see them again. It remains quiet. Everybody who has anything to do with tourists is complaining.

It gives me an opportunity to visit the local hospital to see an internist. Just checking my blood. I already had the idea, tht the results would not be perfect and my feeling was right. I have to adjust my medication. And then there is the meeting with Tjerk at Floyd's. Just cathing up. He arrives on an old Jawa and of course we talk bout it. Then on sunday April 27 I finally have another tour. The boss will not come with me this day, but another guide, who speaks Russian, as we have some russian guests. I take care of the Dutch speaking guests. When I walk through town on monday I run into Tine. For a moment we talk and then we both go our own way. It will happen more often in the future I think.

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Tjerk on his JAWA
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For the tuesdays there is a boat-tour planned starting in Manavgat. It seems season is open. By this time I have nearly 2400 pictures made. In total I run into Tine 3 times. Mothersday...I am waiting in exitement...in vain. Then 3 days later I celebrate my birthday. Almost every hour I check for messages. In the evening after 8 pm, I get the first message from the kids. I really do feel so popular. On mails to Roel there is rudely no reply and on May 28 my visa expires. I finally got rid of all the stress and now it is building up again, because Roel still has not payed me and I need money to get a new visa. Work will not start.

As if there are no tourists. They are there, but either stay in the hotel or lay on the beach. The whole city is complaining and is waiting of things to come. The big stream should have started weeks ago. With only one tour a week I can't save money.

I am here now for almost 12 weeks and am close to 3000 pictures. When I have to go back, then at least I have lots of pics as a momento. Very exiting all of this. There are always people who seem to know better and have to judge and give their comment without even knowing the facts. They have to kick when you are down.
On May 2th I visit Ismael in his wineshop. There is a lady who wants to give shows with her python. I act brave sand ask her if I can hold the snake for a while. Immediatly I give my camera to Ismael and tell him to make lots of pics, because the kids will not believe this, as I am petrofied for snakes. A real victory for myself.

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And still the season has not started. I am still making the city unsafe and go for free walks. Visit my new friends and drink endlessly tea.
The boss talks to his brother and they are giving me the loan for money to get my permit to stay here. I get enough money to get me a permit for 6 months, otherwise we will have the same problem again in 3 months. They trust me that I will pay them back. Since there are too few tours, I get payed per day with Turkish standards and that is very little. Every tip is welcome. The amount of tours start to move up to 3 a week, but it is already june. By this time it should have been daily. That is not the case.

The "all inclusive" is killing the tourism. Everybody is complaining still, not only the tourist agencies, but also restaurants and shopkeepers. Then I get a message of Annie. She sold one of my bikes. It seems the Shadow is gone now. Now at least I can pay my boss back. For as far as I know Roel has still not sent me any money. Then I would at least have the choice to rent my own place. In the mean time it has become July and still I run 3 tours a week. I can't afford to rent my own appartment. So I start working for a travel agency for 4 evenings a week, to sell tours. But I'm not good at it and the Dolmus-bus is more expensive then the earnings, so I stop after 4 weeks. At least I have more free time.

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It should be high season now, but it's like there are no tourists. Rafting, Jeep-sfari and Boat-tours are popular, certainly by the younger tourists. There is little interest in culture. The guests that I have do have interest in it and I find that very comforting. Sometimes I see them move to the tip of their chairs, not to miss one word of what I have to tell them.
Then on July 15th, at 06.00 in the morning, I experience my first earth-quake. I thought the warm weather was getting to me, because it felt like being dizzy for a moment. Later that morning, when we are in Aspendos talking to other drivers and tourist-guides, they ask if I felt it too. Well, not conciously. On July 31, when we leave at 18.15 the antic city of Side, it is still 42 degrees. I have been walking around with my guests for one hour. Now that I drink lots more water and have to walk around in these temperatures, I loose weight. Am almost to my minimum. I learn to appreciate cold showers. Well the water is luke warm anyway on the 4th floor, when coming from the tap. In less then 5 minutes after a shower everything is sticky again anyway. Soap is hardly ever used, because it dries the skin too much. Just rinse off the sweat, because I have soaked already most of the day.

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Parking Aspendos 05-08-2008.

On August 1 the bush-fires start between Antalya and Manavgat. On saturday August 2, Aspendos theatre is mentioned on the news. What to do, if we can't go with our guests to Aspendos tomorrow? On sundaymorning we do visit Aspendos and see at about 500 metres the black scorced mountains laying in the sun. While waiting for the guests, a policecar with lights comes over the hill, followed by about 6 trucks. The Red Cross is coming to help the people that got homeless. Near the ruins of the aquaduct, at the backside of the theatre, we talk to some of the locals. They have been very scared. When we move on, we see a place of about 10 metres in diameter, next to the road, that is in ashes. It was really very close.

Mozaďcs in the rain in the antic city of Side

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In July we got our first taste of the heat during a heatwave. But still in August the temperatures are bearable. One should drink lots of water though. Sweat is running down my face from early in the morning untill late at night. It gathers under my chin and it is like I've been dreweling all over my top. But I'm not the only one, many with me in that. At night the temperatures stay among 30 degrees Celsius. Just wearing a sheet against the draft, because windows and doors are open. One can, when you live in a flat. Draft along my sweaty body doesn't seem very healthy to me. It is either that sheet or a cotton T-shirt. That T-shirt is exchanged for a dry one a few times during the night. On a regular basis the electricity falls out. The net can't keep up with all the airco's. When the generator at the restaurant below starts, we know that we are not the only ones. Very annoying when it happens during the evening, when the phone-calls come in. We have to write the lists by candle-light, because: "The show must go on".

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Gedropt bij het theater in Side

In September all schools start again and we notice straight away. We have only one schoolbus with both Russian and Europeans. But it is only this once. Soon we are back on track again. Now we get "middelaged" and "young couples without children". I still enjoy taking people to these unique areas and tell them about the history and culture of Turkey. Then I start a diarrhoea and what ever tips I follow up, it won't stop. I still do my tours though, but start loosing weight rapidly. Eventually I send the boss to get me some pills. Then I get everything under control again. I leave it like this for now. On september 19 the first thunderstorm breaks loose, but it rains only for a short while.

I see I have not put an update on my website for at least 6 weeks, so I better start doing something about it. Time flies when you are having fun. All season, every saturdaymorning, they put smoke into the sewage-system, so we hardly have any flies or musquito's. I get news that finally some money has come my way, but I am too num to find a flat of my own. At the end of september I receive the news that my mother is in hospital and I can't leave. that is the tourist world. Your work finishes when the season is over. Contact with the homefront intensifies for a while and I get updates on every change.

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On October 3 my chef tells me we may have a group of French coming with us to Pamukkale. I dive into the dictionaries as I don't want to stand there, not knowing the words. Now wait and see if we indeed go on that trip. Well that trip was not executed, but in the place I got 16 French and 8 Dutch people for the villagetour, here in the mountains.

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What rally struck me is that there are no shells on the beaches here, only stones. Very strange really. On October 11 I go to a travel agency here to book my flight to the netherlands. The date is set for December 23. Then I go to the harbour to have my hair cut in layers by Ali. He is the neighbour of Haluk, where I always have a look for the newest T-shirts. On October 13 I have my blood checked again and go for my injection to Can, the international hospital here in Alanya. Everything is ok again. On October 17 I am struck by a stomachflu. Then on October 30 there is the final tour and so from now on I have to pay the full rent.

On November 6 I go to a lecture of the International Conference for Cultural and Event Tourism, here in Alanya. Every day I walk in town, visiting old friends and am spoken to by others and find new friends that way. Endlessly drinking tea. On November 7 I talk to two bikers. One is my nextdoor neighbour, but both ride a Harley Sportster. My eye is caught by the shape of the mudguard and the special paint of one of the bikes. I tell them I am more a Honda-fan and then they become curious. I give them a card with the name of my website and they go straight in to their computer. Later they leave me a message in my guestbook and that is how I find out that they are the president and the vice-president of a Turksih chapter of No racer. Lucky for me the men speak very good German, because my Turkish is not very good yet.

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I can't do it on my own. Ibo of a souvenirshop asks me to help him polish up his English and in return I ask him to help me with my Turkish. So I visit him twice a week in his shop, that he runs with his brother Mehmet. On November 9 I have a chat with the captain of the glass bottom boat. He tells me that some fishermen have caught swordfish. He tells me to follow him and get on the fishing boat next to it. There we can see the catch. Of course I ask if I can make pictures and I can. The captain of the fishingboat even shows me a movie on his mobile phone of a shark they have caught. I have to have lunch with them. They are very hospitable here and when they offer you something, you have to accept or they think you are rude. It is still a good life here in Alanya. On the way home I hear music in the harbour. A wedding. They just leave as I pass by. Later I see another bride in a car passing by. In winter they usually get married here. In the first place the temperture is much more pleasant and in the second place, most of the work is done.

Today for instance it is 27 degrees Celsius, but in the night it will drop to about 13 degrees. I feel that as rather cold. Not sure if that will be a problem when I go back to Holland in December. On November 12 I make a trip on the boat with the glss bottom. While coming back from the Balikcilar,where i had a tosti, I run into the captin of this boat. We sit down on a bench and have a chat. While we are talking some Germans announce they feel like making such a trip. He says to me, you are coming too, go already on board. I won't have anyone saying that twice to me. I have made an attempt to make pictures of what was visible, but all I can see on the pics is the turqoise water passing under the boat. I have seen fish swimming, small ones of course as the large ones swim away by the noise of the engine. In the mean time I am considering to make a page with the name: "Only in Turkey". I've made some pictures here and there with situations you won't find easily anywhere else in the world and they have turned out to be real nice shots.

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On tuesday, november 25,I take the 11.30 bus to Antalya and there I try to find me a bus that takes me to Bodrum. That's a drag, as the bus can only take me to Mugla and from there I have to find yet another bus. Anyway, by the next morning I arrive in Bodrum.
In the harbour I have my luggage checked, then I buy a ten-pack of cigarettes for 10 euro in the tax-free shop. Then passport control. I am not allowed to leave the country as the officer thinks I don't have all the necessary papers in good order. If I leave, I get a fine and I can't come back into Turkey for 6 months. My papers are invalid. At the policestation in Alanya, where I have applied for a new citizens-permit, I got a note that says, that I have given all the necessary papers in their hands and that my permit is in process. The told me I could travel with this note. They can't seem to find me in the computer and so I will need to go back to Alanya.
After delivering my luggage into my room the next morning, I go straight to the police station. They had given me the guarantee I could travel without any problems. I had filled up the form, made a copy of my bankaccounts, 2 passportpictures and the proof that I had paid 910,75 Lira in the tax-office. They give you a note then, because they need your permit to extend the date.
Now my citizens permit (Ikamet)was ready and I deal with a few things in Alanya and on sunday november 30 I travel again to Bodrum (a 10 hour trip with breaks). I am lucky, as there is a bus that goes straight away to Mugla and so at midnight I am in Bodrum. The taxi-drivers call me if I want a taxi, but I tell them, only if they know a cheap hotel, with clean sheets and a shower. They know a nice small hotel, so I get a few hours of sleep and a breakfast, before I have a taxi called to take me to the harbour at 8.30.
The policeman who checks the luggage asks me: How are you doing love? I tell him that the policeman in Alanya told me that only one phonecall would have solved the problem, because my file is in Alanya. Now I had spent over 150 lira for nothing. The little puke at passportcontrol is not on duty today, otherwise I would have told him, what they had told me in Alanya. And then I leave with the ferryboat for Kos, to visit my girlfriend and her son. My help is no longer needed for the removal, like we had planned, but I have some sort of vacation at the house of her, her son, plus her cats and dogs. I stay for one week. Around her house she has about 10 stray cats and the former tennants used to feed them. She also has 8 chickens and a rooster taken over. Nice fresh eggs for breakfast. But it is a funny appearance when the cats and chickens are fed with the leftovers and eating in close harmony.
In wintertime the ferryboat only goes 3 times a week, so I have to make a choice, either back on friday or on the mondays. I choose for monday december 8th. Then it is Kurban Bayram, the slaughterfest and I'm not sure wether busses will drive or not. I can drive with Kamil Koç to Antalya and from there I need to find me a bus to go to Alanya. Very little busses go, certainly no Dolmus-busses. I find a touringcar that can take me to the otogar (busterminal) in Alanya and from there I can take a city-bus. So on tuesdaymorning I am back home on base at 08.30.
I start making a list of things to do in Holland. Half my suitcase is filled with souvenirs , so I will have lots of place for Dutch licorice on the way back. On december 22 transfer is arranged at 6 pm. My flight is the next morning at 6 am. When there is no delay I will be in Amsterdam airport at 09.30. Because it is drizzling for 2 days already in Alanya, I only do the most necessary laundry and leave the rest for later, when I am back. Roel has put everything he wants me to have in the garage. He has filled 110 bananaboxes. But with an official removel company, I need official boxes, so I need to repack everything at a temperature arond zero. Very nice, when you have had a much more pleasant temperature around you for the previous year in Turkey. With this temperature I will have a prescription on the toilet.

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